Lake Como: A Genuine Local's Guide

Discovering the True Lake Como

I recently spent time exploring Lake Como (also locally known as “Como Lake”) and realized how much of it remains unknown to most people planning a visit. This isn’t a guide written from a hotel room or pulled together from glossy websites. It’s based on what I actually saw, experienced, and loved. I thought it might be helpful to share my honest take for anyone thinking of coming here—especially if you’re looking to go beyond the obvious tourist circuit and see what this place is really about.

Understanding Lake Como

Let’s start with something that throws most people off: Lake Como is not just Como.

The lake has a Y shape. It’s split into three branches. The town of Como sits at the end of the western branch, and while it’s the namesake of the lake, it’s just a small part of the whole story. The real name of the lake is Lario, and when locals say they’re going to “the lake,” they might mean any one of the dozens of little towns and villages that dot the shoreline. If you only visit Como, you’re missing the majority of what makes this place special.

The three branches meet at a central point near Bellagio, forming what locals call the “golden triangle” between Bellagio, Menaggio, and Varenna. Each branch has its own character: the western branch (Como to Argegno) feels more developed and touristy, the eastern branch (Lecco to Bellagio) offers dramatic mountain backdrops, and the northern branch stretches toward Alpine territory with a wilder feel.

Como Town: Worth Visiting But Not Your Only Stop

Now, Como is not a bad place. It has restaurants, it has a promenade, it has a bit of shopping. But it’s also overcrowded, overpriced, and a logistical pain if you’re trying to move around. It’s not the most scenic part. It’s not where the lake opens up. It’s not where the views hit you in the chest. So unless your goal is to take a selfie and go home, don’t make Como your only stop on your Lake Como itinerary.

That said, Como town does have some worthwhile attractions. The Cathedral (Duomo) showcases impressive Gothic-Renaissance architecture, and the funicular up to Brunate provides spectacular views. Villa Olmo, with its neoclassical grandeur and lakefront gardens, is also worth exploring. But after a day here, venture further up the lake for more authentic experiences.

Lake Como on a Budget: Affordable Travel Tips from a Local

Also, please don’t let the luxury image fool you. Lake Como does not have to be expensive. I say this as someone who lives here and has never stayed in a luxury hotel. Most of us locals aren’t rich. We’re regular people, many from working-class or low-income families. Some of us grew up spending our summers here because our families couldn’t afford to go anywhere else. We didn’t vacation on the lake. We had the lake.

And yet, tourists keep paying insane prices. Don’t fall for it. There are gorgeous places to stay that won’t drain your wallet. There are family-run trattorias that serve food ten times better than tourist spots. Don’t assume you have to spend big to enjoy Lake Como’s beauty.

For affordable accommodation, look into the numerous B&Bs in smaller towns like Mandello del Lario or Abbadia. Many local families rent apartments through sites like Airbnb at reasonable prices, especially if you book outside peak season (July-August). Hostels in Menaggio and Como offer dorm beds for budget travelers. For meals, follow the “one street back” rule—restaurants just one street back from the waterfront often charge half the price with better quality food.

Search Like a Local for Authentic Como Lake Experiences

One of the best tips I can give you: search for information in Italian. If you only look at English-language websites, you’re going to see the same five places over and over: Bellagio, Varenna, Como, and a couple of luxury villas. That’s not even close to the whole picture. Set your search language to Italian and use Google Translate. The pictures will be better. The recommendations more local. The experiences more real when exploring Como Lake.

Try searching for terms like “eventi Lago di Como” (Como Lake events), “sagre Lago di Como” (food festivals), “spiagge libere Lago di Como” (free beaches), or “passeggiate facili Lago di Como” (easy walks). You’ll discover a whole different side of the lake that most English-speaking tourists never see. Local websites like “LarioIN” and “Lago di Como Turismo” often feature events and spots that international travel sites overlook.

Unique Activities Around Lake Como

Now, what is there to do around Lake Como, besides boat rides and sipping wine in overpriced cafes? A lot. If you’re into nature, hiking, history, food, biking, even ghost towns or reenactments—there’s something for you.

The lake’s water itself offers numerous activities. Consider taking sailing lessons at one of the sailing clubs in Domaso or Dervio—they sometimes offer short courses for beginners at reasonable prices. Kayaking and stand-up paddleboarding provide intimate ways to explore hidden coves and shorelines inaccessible by road. Rental shops in Bellagio, Menaggio, and Colico offer equipment by the hour or day.

For history buffs, the lake’s rich silk-making heritage is worth exploring. The Museo della Seta (Silk Museum) in Como tells the story of how this area became one of Europe’s most important silk-producing regions. You can still buy locally-made silk products, though be prepared to pay for quality.

Must-Visit Towns on Lake Como: A Local’s Recommendations

Let’s talk towns. Every little town has its charm. You really can’t go wrong. But here are some highlights that I always recommend:

Lecco: The Literary Gem of Eastern Lake Como

Lecco (eastern branch) is where I live. It’s connected really well to Milan and to the rest of the lake. The mountains here feel like they rise straight out of the water. The city center is small and very walkable. You can get a great meal, see beautiful views, and walk along the longest lakeside promenade on the lake. It’s also the setting of Italy’s first major novel, The Betrothed, which gives it some literary cred.

Don’t miss the Torre Viscontea and the Palazzo delle Paure, which houses an interesting art collection. For food, the area around Via Cattaneo offers excellent restaurants serving local specialties like polenta uncia (polenta with cheese and butter) and missoltini (dried lake fish). Caffè Cermenati in the main square makes exceptional pastries and is perfect for people-watching.

From Lecco, it’s a quick train ride to two classic stops: Varenna and Bellano.

Varenna: The Romantic Village With the Famous Lover’s Walk

Varenna is popular, especially for its Lover’s Walk—a narrow, hanging pathway that hugs the lake and leads you into town. It’s lovely. It’s also expensive and full of tourists, so I’d suggest going for a walk, grabbing a gelato, and maybe moving on before you start feeling like you’re in a postcard.

Beyond the walkway, take time to explore Villa Monastero with its botanical garden stretching along the lakefront. The garden features exotic plants, classical statues, and stunning views. The tiny Church of San Giorgio, dating back to the 14th century, contains interesting frescoes and offers a peaceful retreat from the tourist hustle.

Bellano: Home to the Spectacular Orrido Gorge

Bellano is next on the line and feels a bit more down-to-earth. The big attraction here is the Orrido di Bellano, a deep, narrow gorge with walkways and rushing water. It’s only a short visit, but it stays with you. It’s eerie and beautiful at once.

The town also hosts the Pesa Vegia festival each January 5th, an ancient celebration dating back to 1606 when locals revolted against unfair taxation. It features a historical parade with hundreds of participants in period costumes, culminating in a beautiful torchlight procession. If you visit during the Christmas season, this is an authentic cultural experience that few tourists know about.

Bellagio: The Pearl of Lake Como

Bellagio is probably the most famous town on the lake. It’s beautiful—the kind of place that makes you stop in your tracks. But it’s also crowded and can feel a bit artificial during high season. If you can, go in early spring or late fall. I went last year in early June and found it peaceful and magical. The food there is genuinely good, so if you go, try to eat in one of the smaller alleys, away from the ferry.

While in Bellagio, make time for the gardens at Villa Melzi—less known than Villa Carlotta but equally beautiful and usually less crowded. The hamlet of Pescallo, just a 10-minute walk from Bellagio’s center, offers a quiet fishing village atmosphere with charming views. For a unique perspective, hike up to the Baluardo lookout point above town for panoramic views of all three branches of Como Lake.

Menaggio: The Western Shore’s Gem

Menaggio deserves mention as one of the most pleasant mid-sized towns on the western shore. Its elegant lakefront promenade features Art Nouveau buildings and welcoming cafés. The upper part of town (Menaggio Alto) preserves medieval streets and remnants of castle walls. It’s also a hub for outdoor activities—the local tourist office can arrange mountain biking excursions and hiking guides for exploring the Val Menaggio, a beautiful valley extending behind the town.

Hidden Gems of Lake Como

Want something weirder? Try Consonno, the ghost town above Lecco. It was supposed to become Italy’s Las Vegas back in the ’60s, with arcades, casinos, and hotels. Then a landslide hit the only road up, and the place was abandoned. Now it’s crumbling and surreal. There’s graffiti, broken glass, and half-standing buildings. Local volunteers organize a chestnut festival in the fall, and some writers use it as inspiration. Go with caution, but definitely go.

Another unique spot is Corenno Plinio, way up at the top of the lake. It’s so small it barely exists, but it has a castle, ancient stone steps, and a medieval festival in August with jesters, fire-breathers, and tournaments. Yes, really. You do need to pay a ticket to enter the town, but it’s worth it.

For something truly off the beaten path, explore the Fiume Latte (Milk River) near Varenna. This peculiar waterfall appears milky white when flowing at full force (typically April to June) due to the limestone content. It’s mentioned in Leonardo da Vinci’s Codex Atlanticus, and accessing it requires a short but steep walk up from the main road.

Another hidden treasure is the Abbey of Piona on the Olgiasca peninsula near Colico. This active Cistercian monastery dates back to the 7th century and produces herbal liqueurs and honey. The peaceful setting offers spectacular views across the northern branch of Como Lake, and the architecture showcases beautiful Romanesque elements.

Castles and Medieval Experiences arround Lake Como

Just above Varenna is Castello di Vezio. You’ll have to climb a bit to reach it, but the view from up there is incredible. The castle is full of strange ghost-like sculptures and often hosts falconry demonstrations. There’s also a medieval reenactment a few times each summer. You can grab food up there too. It’s a photographer’s dream.

The fortress was originally built by the Lombards and later expanded by the Visconti family who ruled Milan. The castle guards contain plaster casts of “ghosts” that the caretaker creates each year and leaves exposed to the elements, creating an eerie, decaying display throughout the grounds. Try to time your visit for one of the falconry shows, where you can see hawks, owls, and eagles in flight against the backdrop of Como Lake.

Another impressive historical site is the Forte Montecchio Nord near Colico. It’s the best-preserved World War I fortress in Europe, with its original artillery still intact. The guided tours explain the fort’s strategic importance and give insights into life for soldiers stationed there. The views over the northern end of Como Lake are spectacular.

Lake Como Mountain Views: Breathtaking Panoramas

If you’re craving mountain air, head to Pian dei Resinelli, above Lecco. This is where local families go for picnics and walks. The Belvedere is a platform that juts out from the mountain and gives you a panoramic view of the lake. It’s like flying, but without leaving the ground.

For serious hikers, the area around Como Lake offers challenging trails that reward with incredible vistas. Monte Legnone (2,610m), the highest peak surrounding the lake, provides a strenuous but rewarding climb with views extending to the Swiss Alps on clear days. The Grigna massif (both Grigna Settentrionale and Meridionale) offers technical climbing routes as well as more accessible paths.

A more accessible option is Monte Barro Regional Park, which combines natural beauty with archaeological sites. The remains of a Gothic settlement from the 5th-6th centuries AD sit among panoramic viewpoints overlooking both Como Lake and the Brianza plain.

Swimming in Lake Como: Safety Tips and Best Beaches

Let’s talk swimming. Be careful. This lake is deep. One of the deepest in Europe. Some spots go from shallow to 20 meters in just a few steps. There are strong currents and cold zones. People—locals included—have drowned.

Never swim alone. Never swim far from shore. And absolutely never swim near harbors or ferry routes. Boats won’t see you.

Also: avoid swimming in big towns like Como, Lecco, and Varenna. Not to be gross, but sewage and ferry traffic make the water quality bad. Stick to proper beaches:

Best Beaches Around Lake Como for Safe Swimming

Abbadia Lariana is huge, mostly free, and has everything: pizzerias, showers, chair rentals, you name it. The Spiaggia Pubblica di Abbadia has a gradually sloping bottom, making it safer for families with children.
Mandello del Lario and Pradello are also good, though you have to pay. Mandello’s Lido has well-maintained facilities and clear water that’s regularly tested for quality.
Onno and Lierna are smaller, free, and clean. Great spots for a refreshing Lake Como swim. Lierna’s Riva Bianca beach features distinctive white pebbles and crystal-clear water with a stunning mountain backdrop.

For something more unusual, try the beach at Rezzonico, a tiny hamlet north of Menaggio. The pebbly shore is dotted with huge boulders that provide natural diving platforms, and the water quality is excellent.

Another excellent swimming spot is the Lido di Lenno, which offers golden sand (imported, but still nice), shallow water, and easy access to the beautiful Villa Balbianello nearby.

Hiking Trails Around Lake Como: Paths with Spectacular Views

Hiking? Yes. You have to hike when visiting Como Lake.

The most famous trail is the Sentiero del Viandante. It was once the main route for travelers moving along the lake. Now it’s a restored trail that goes from Lecco to Colico. You can do short sections, like from Varenna to Bellano, or go all-in. The views are unreal. It’s not hard, and you might see deer or foxes along the way.

The trail is well-marked with yellow signs and can be joined or left at multiple points where it intersects with villages. The section between Lierna and Varenna is particularly scenic, passing through olive groves and offering continuous lake views. Pack a picnic and plenty of water, as some stretches have few services.

A simpler walk is to San Tomaso, just 30 minutes up from Lecco. Once you get there, it opens into this peaceful green meadow with views that make your heart stop. There’s a little mountain hut where you can eat and rest. Don’t go on Sundays unless you want to share it with every single person in town.

Feeling stronger? Try San Martino or Monte Barro. These are classic local hikes with steep climbs and serious payoffs. Monte Barro has a hermitage where you can get drinks or a meal. Great reward after the climb.

For families with children, the Greenway del Lago is perfect—a 10km gentle path from Colonno to Griante that passes through charming villages and offers plenty of spots to stop for gelato or a swim. You can walk sections of it if the full distance seems too much.

Cycling Routes Around Lake Como: Two-Wheel Adventures

Into biking? Two top picks for cycling around Lake Como:

Ciclovia dell’Adda goes from Lecco to Milan, about 40km of pure bliss through villages and along the river. This mostly flat route follows the Adda River through lush landscapes and past Leonardo da Vinci’s lock system at Imbersago, where you can cross the river on a hand-operated ferry designed by the Renaissance genius himself. The path passes through the industrial archaeology site of Crespi d’Adda, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that preserves a 19th-century model workers’ village.

Garlate Loop is a shorter circuit around a smaller lake next to Lecco. It’s popular on Sundays and passes through colorful hamlets like Pescarenico. The flat, 10km route is perfect for families and casual cyclists, with plenty of spots to stop for refreshments along the way.

For more ambitious cyclists, the Madonna del Ghisallo climb is legendary—it’s been featured in the Giro d’Italia multiple times. At the top, visit the cyclists’ sanctuary and museum, where racing memorabilia and historic bicycles tell the story of Italian cycling. The church itself is the official patron of cyclists, blessed by Pope Pius XII in 1949.

Adventure Sports at Lake Como: Activities for Thrill-Seekers

If that’s not enough for you, the lake is a hub for adventure sports: paragliding, canoeing, mountain biking, climbing, rafting, skiing, skydiving, and more. If it can be done outdoors, it can probably be done at Como Lake.

Kitesurfing and windsurfing are particularly popular in the northern part of the lake, especially around Domaso and Gravedona, where afternoon winds provide ideal conditions. Schools offer courses for beginners, and equipment rental is widely available.

Canyoning has gained popularity in recent years, with guides leading adventurous groups through the narrow gorges and waterfalls of tributaries flowing into Como Lake. The Boazzo Canyon near Dervio and Esino Canyon are particularly exciting, with natural slides, jumps into crystal pools, and rappelling down waterfalls.

Rock climbing opportunities abound around the lake, with the limestone cliffs of Grigna and Grignetta offering hundreds of routes for all skill levels. The Rocce di Baiedo near Pasturo is popular with beginners, while experts challenge themselves on the technical routes of Sasso Cavallo.

Authentic Local Experiences: Food Festivals and Wine Events

And if you’re here in the summer, watch out for local sagre. These are small-town food festivals. You’ll see handmade posters with names like “Festa della Polenta” or “Palio delle Contrade.” Go. Eat. Listen to loud music. Drink from plastic cups. That’s the real Lake Como experience.

Some notable food events include the Sagra del Pesce in Dongo (June), celebrating lake fish, and the Sagra della Polenta Taragna in Bellano (July), focused on the local buckwheat polenta mixed with cheese. In September, Bellagio hosts a Craft Beer Festival featuring microbreweries from around Lombardy.

The traditional cuisine around Como Lake deserves special attention. Try missoltini (sun-dried lake fish preserved with salt and laurel), risotto con persico (perch risotto), and lavarello (whitefish) prepared in various ways. The northern Italian staples like polenta, ossobuco, and brasato are executed perfectly here, often with local twists. For dessert, don’t miss the miascia, a rustic cake made with stale bread and seasonal fruits—a testament to the waste-not culture of the lake’s traditional households.

One last tip: if you’re into wine, don’t waste your money on fancy tours. Go to Morbegno in Cantina in September or October. It’s a wine festival where you buy a pass and walk from cellar to cellar tasting wine and food. It’s cheap, fun, and full of locals.

The Valtellina valley just north of Como Lake produces excellent red wines from the Nebbiolo grape (locally called Chiavennasca), including Valtellina Superiore and the powerful Sforzato, made from dried grapes. Many local restaurants around Como Lake serve these wines, which pair perfectly with the hearty northern Italian cuisine.

Seasonal Highlights: When to Visit Como Lake

Each season offers a different perspective on Como Lake. Spring (April-June) brings wildflowers, manageable crowds, and moderate temperatures—ideal for hiking and exploring villages. Summer (July-August) is busiest but perfect for swimming and water activities, with long evenings for dining al fresco.

Fall (September-October) might be the most magical time, with golden light, harvest festivals, and fewer tourists. The lake acts as a heat reservoir, keeping the shoreline mild even as the surrounding mountains begin to cool. Winter (November-March) shows a contemplative side of the lake, with misty mornings, snow-capped mountains, and Christmas markets in Como and Lecco. Many tourists never experience this authentic, quieter season when locals reclaim their towns.

Transportation Tips: Getting Around Como Lake

Getting around Como Lake without a car is entirely possible. The comprehensive ferry system connects most towns, with both slow boats (perfect for sightseeing) and faster hydrofoils for longer journeys. A one-day unlimited ferry pass for the central lake area is one of the best values in transportation.

Trains run along both the eastern shore (Milano-Lecco-Colico line) and western shore (Milano-Como-Chiavenna line), making access to many towns straightforward. Local buses fill in the gaps, reaching hillside villages and areas not served by rail.

If you do rent a car, be prepared for narrow, winding roads and limited parking, especially in summer. The spectacular lakeside road between Como and Bellagio (SS583) offers amazing views but requires confident driving—coaches and buses navigate these tight corners too!

The Real Lake Como Experience

That’s it. Lake Como is more than yachts and influencers. It’s mountains and chestnut festivals, tiny stone towns and picnic blankets, paths that twist through the woods and into history. It’s a place to fall in love with slowly.

Whether you’re seeking adventure in the mountains, tranquility by the shore, cultural immersion in historic villages, or culinary discoveries in local eateries, Como Lake offers experiences that go far beyond its glamorous reputation. By seeking out authentic places and connecting with the genuine rhythm of lake life, you’ll discover why generations of locals have been so deeply attached to this special corner of Italy.

Hope this helps someone out there planning their authentic Como Lake adventure.